Exploring Pag Island

Pag Island stretches 60 kilometres along Croatia's coast and is unlike anywhere else in the country. The northern half — where Povljana sits — is bare limestone karst sculpted by the Bura wind. The southern half softens into olive groves, salt flats, and the walled Old Town of Pag. Both halves are worth a day of exploration.

Pag Old Town

The medieval walled town at the southern end of the island takes about 45 minutes to drive from Povljana. The town was planned in the 15th century by the Venetians; its street grid, cathedral, and duke's palace survive largely intact. The lace-making tradition here is UNESCO-listed.

The main square holds a small daily market in summer with local cheese, lamb, and olive oil. The famous Paška sir (Pag cheese) is made from sheep milk enriched by the salt wind — dry, sharp, and unlike any other Croatian cheese.

Novalja and Zrće Beach

Novalja, in the middle of the island, is known for its summer nightlife at Zrće Beach. Outside of peak summer it is a pleasant, affordable seaside town with a Roman aqueduct tunnel you can walk through (Talijanova buža). The drive from Povljana is about 30 minutes north.

Salt Flats and the Karst Landscape

The area around Pag town includes active salt pans that have operated since antiquity. In late summer you can watch the harvest. The surrounding landscape of white limestone and sparse sage scrub gives the island its lunar reputation — otherworldly on clear days, especially in afternoon light.

Practical Notes

• Pag Old Town: Free to enter; most konoba restaurants are open May–September.
• Driving: The island road (D106) is well maintained. Budget 45–60 min Povljana–Pag town.
• Ferry: A car ferry runs between Žigljen (near Novalja) and Prizna on the mainland — useful if you want to extend the trip toward Zadar.
• Best time: June and September avoid peak crowds. July–August is hot and busy, especially at Novalja.